CHAPTER XVI INDIA THE sun disappeared. I could make out nothing but boulders and glaciers . . . Where, in such cold, were we going to camp? The animals were exhausted and could only get on with difficulty. One of them had just fallen amongst the rocks, and—a rare occurrence—Peter swore at the men. "Come on, you bloody fools!53 Once again, because of Satar's bales, the caravan was being held up. By the time the kitchen-box was in that evening we had already slept without having had anything to eat. The advantage of travelling with a sleeping-bag is that you can carry it yourself and, even without luggage, be sure, at least, of a warm bed. A Hunza man named Assa suddenly joined us and led us through blinding snow to the stone hut that was Gulkoja. It was somewhere near the glacier. Peter had given away his matches—I have forgotten to whom—and we had to wait till the men came in before we could make tea—there were dried tufts of wild camomile to make it with. Except Tokta Ahun the men were utterly worn out and no sooner had they got in than they fell, one after another, in a heap and went fast asleep. Tokta had done practically nothing, as he suffered from mountain sickness. In the morning the world continued to look different from anything we had so far seen. There were no more pasture lands at the foot of eroded mountains. There was nothing anywhere but walls of rock that rose at a single spring to finish in innumerable jagged edges, and through that enchanted region our valley wound in and out between the 281